Care For Air Plants
Tillandsia is the largest genus in the bromeliad family, accounting
for approximately 550 of the over 2500 species of bromeliads. They are
native to the warmer climates of the Americas. Commonly known as
airplants, they are found from jungle rain forest to arid desert
environments – from sea level to high mountain regions
Most Tillandsia species use their root systems to attach themselves
to trees or rocks and absorb moisture and nutrients through their
leaves. This classifies them as epiphytes. Absorption occurs through
small scales on their leaves called trichomes. These trichomes are what
give many air plants their silver or gray appearance. There is enormous
variety in size, shape, texture, bloom and color of these bromeliads.
Many of these unique plants undergo a dramatic color change as they
prepare to bloom. Some have a very luscious and unequaled fragrance.
Since tillandsias are epiphytes, the mounting medium you choose is
limited only by your imagination.
These hardy plants are adaptable and tolerant to a wide range of
environmental conditions and require minimal care. The three most
important requirements are bright light, although not direct sun, good
air circulation and water.
NDOOR / OUTDOOR CARE LIGHT: If your tillandsias are going to be in
your home or office, care must be taken to provide enough light and
correct moisture to maintain a healthy plant. A South, East or West
window would be best. Bright light or filtered sun is recommended. If
these light conditions are not possible, a broad spectrum fluorescent
light, such as an aquarium light will provide short term light
requirements for your plants. Monthly rotation of indoor plants with
those grown in more favora
WATER: Indoor tillandsias should stay healthy with a watering
schedule of 2 to 4 times a week. However, it may be necessary to water
more often due to dryer, less humid air caused by air-conditioning or
heating. Plants grown in humid outdoor environments should be watered 2
to 3 times weekly. In dryer climates more frequent watering may be
necessary. Saturate the bromeliad completely until water runs off the
plant – light misting is normally insufficient. Allow to dry completely
between waterings. If your plant’s leaves start to curl or roll
(nature’s way of conserving moisture), it could be an indication of
dehydration. This can be corrected by completely submerging your plant
in water overnight; then resume normal watering schedule. Softer,
greener-leaved plants will require more frequent watering and a bit less
sun than gray or silver-leaved plants.
VENTILATION: Locate your tillandsias in a well-ventilated area as
they love fresh moving air. The movement of air dries plants between
waterings which helps to avoid any disease due to overwatering.
FERTILIZATION: If you wish to make your plants extra happy you should
fertilize about once a month. Because they have the ability to capture
and hold nutrients with their trichomes, they have a tendency to be
sensitive to overfertilization. Use a good quality liquid or water
soluble fertilizer with a formulation low in copper. (High amounts of
copper are toxic to bromeliads.) We recommend 10-5-5 plant food.
Normally dilute the suggested dosage to 1/4 strength. Fertilizing is not
absolutely necessary to survival, but will increase the growth and
vigor of your plants and their blooms.
TEMPERATURE: Very tolerant of a wide range of temperatures, most
species can withstand near freezing temperatures. Although preferring
temperatures in the seventies (Fahrenheit), with increased water, air
circulation and shade, they can do quite well in temperatures well into
the nineties.
BLOOM: Tillandsia blooms are as diverse and beautiful as any in the
plant world and can last from a few days to as long as a year in some of
the slower growing plants. Color can vary from bright yellow, orange,
red, pink, blue, purple, white and many shades in between. A wide
variety of plants bloom naturally in late winter through mid-summer.
Many, but not all, can be forced to bloom using a solution of plant
growth regulator sprayed lightly over the entire plant. This treatment
will induce the blooming cycle within 4 to 8 weeks. However, many air
plants are too sensitive and can be damaged by this process. Or the
bloom they may produce is a disappointment compared to the plant’s
natural blossom.
REPRODUCTION: Tillandsia reproduce by offset (pup) or by seed. Many
send out pups from the base or between the leaves of the mother plant.
This is one characteristic that endears tillandsias to plant
enthusiasts. In some plants it is not unusual to see 4 to 8 offsets
appear before, during or after bloom. Young plants can be separated from
the mother when they are about 1/2 the parent’s size, and will mature
in about one year. Reproduction by seed is a rewarding process, however
growth of a seedling can be very slow, taking years before the young
plant is mature.
MOUNTING: Since most tillandsias are epiphytic the possibilities of
mounting media are almost endless. Some suggestions are driftwood, tree
limbs, cork, clay pottery, manzanita burl, rocks or stones of any kind.
As tillandsias tend to grow in colonies or clusters of plants, many look
very nice just hanging with no mounting at all. Given time an
exceptional specimen plant can develop. There are only a few things you
must consider carefully when choosing your mounting. Make sure the media
you select does not hold water. If a hole is drilled in wood, make sure
the it goes all the way through the wood for quick drainage.
Accumulated salts in ocean driftwood could burn the plant’s leaves. It
would be best to soak the driftwood in fresh water for a couple of days
before use. Do not use treated wood as most is impregnated with a copper
solution to help prevent wood rot. This copper is very toxic to
bromeliads.
Several different adhesives are used for securing the plant onto the
mount. For example; Liquid Nails, hot glue, Goop, Tilly Tacker or E6000.
We recommend E6000 because it is colorless, extremely strong, water
proof, and non-toxic to plants. Use a small amount of adhesive near the
base of the plant, but not on the bottom. Avoid covering the area where
the roots form. Then using a soft coated wire such as telephone wire or
floral wire, tie the plant securely until the adhesive sets. With E6000
it will take about 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on the size and weight
of the plant.
If you do not wish to use adhesives, plants can be wired without
glue. The plant will eventually attach roots which will anchor it to the
mount. If the plant has a root system large enough, a heavy staple gun
can be used to staple the roots directly to the mount without injury to
the tillandsia.
COMMON MISTAKES
- Many people do not water often enough. If your tillandsias are
not getting water from Mother Nature or humidity is very low, watering
three to four times weekly is necessary for healthy, thriving plants.
- Too little light is a common mistake. If your plants are inside,
they need to be near a window to receive adequate light. Remember bright
light but not direct sun.
- Most tillandsias are epiphytes and grow in trees or rocks.
Putting them in soil or covering their bases with moss, can keep them
too wet and cause them to rot.
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